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Reading the Waves, Crests and Swells

When the waves come ashore, some like charging knights ready for battle especially during the rainy season , I feel both a sense of laughter bubbling up in me as well as a kinship with the charging knights.  Watching the waves gather muscle, rise high. as they do in the monsoon growing to  daunting at heights over ten feet even. They come racing to the shore, threatening to destroy everything in their wake, dissolving into bubbles of swash as they hit the shoreline, sometimes so hard that I lose my footing. I’m always stunned by the power the water is able to muster.  Then there are the breaking swell waves or surface waves, generated by the wind -  gentler crests not quite so roused,   When I swim in the sea, I love diving under the large hefty, swollen waves, instead of being hit with their watery might. And, yes, I do feel victorious to have evaded their bashing. Although many others revel in just that. They wait for the waves to crash into them, eyes burnin...

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